| The
International Press writes about carignan
 Jancis
Robinson syndicates carignan 
|
Marc Medevielle gives a notice in Terre de Vins |
Tim Atkins defends a grape, Fuel's Paradise |
Anthony Rose It's always the quiet ones ... |
| Other
carignan tasting notes, links, articles, and more: |
| la passion du vin www.lapassionduvin.com |
daniel roche Sauver Soldat Carignan |
| Khendron.com |
Harpers Wine and Spirits Weekly |
|
Is the Carignane grape -- known as Carignan in France
and so widely planted there that for ages it was the
most widely planted red wine grape in the world -- good,
bad, ugly or great? I have been consistently critical
of the poor old Carignane vine over the years, which
is why, I suspect, the organizer of the first known
international celebratory Carignane tasting last summer
was so keen for me to attend.
Far too many southern French reds have been spoilt
by that harsh, green, acrid smell of over-produced Carignane,
and I have been sympathetic to the authorities' attempts
to reduce the amount of Carignane planted in Languedoc-
Roussillon.
For most of the second half of the 20th century, the
productive Carignane vine was the most common vine variety
in France. It was the vine of choice to replace the
even worse (more vapid, even more productive) Aramon
in the vineyards of the Midi, chiefly because of its
high yields and frost resistance. The pieds noirs --
French colonists in Algeria -- knew how dependable it
had been in the heat of North Africa and were only too
happy to plant it when political upheaval led them to
establish new wine estates in the south of France.
By the end of the 1970s there were more than 500,000
acres of this inconveniently late-ripening variety in
France -- far more than the area devoted to Merlot or
Cabernet Sauvignon, for example. Nowadays Cabernet and
Merlot reign supreme and Carignane -- though it has
been overtaken by the more noble Syrah -- is still the
eighth most-planted wine vine in the world, with nearly
300,000 acres of it worldwide, according to the calculations
of Pat Fegan of the Chicago Wine School, the only man
I know as fascinated by these statistics as I am.
Incentives to rip out vines
With 6,000 acres planted, Carignane is still the 10th
most planted red wine grape in California, but in France
the real sea change came in the 1990s when, thanks to
heavy financial inducements, southern French growers
ripped out Carignane in favor of more fashionable "improving"
varieties or other crops entirely. I can see why the
appellation authorities have steadily reduced the proportion
of Carignane allowed in wines such as Minervois, Corbieres,
Fitou, Faugeres, St. Chinian and Coteaux du Languedoc
in favor of gentler, fruitier grapes such as Syrah,
Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault.
And yet, there are wines made almost exclusively from
Carignane that are very impressive. Some of the most
obvious are grown not in France but over the Spanish
border on the distinctive brown schists of Priorat in
Catalonia.
After all, the grape, which is called Carinena in Spain,
is presumably Spanish in origin, from around the town
of Carinena due west of Priorat in the province of Aragon.
The rulers there at one time conquered much of the Mediterranean.
Carinena still grows in northern Spain with some seriously
old vines clinging to the precipitous slopes of Priorat.
Wines such as Cims de Porrera, Vall Llach and the new
Clos Manyetes from Rene Barbier depend almost exclusively
on them.
Blind tasting
This summer's Carignan Renaissance event was held in
an old wine cellar transformed into hip lighting manufacturer
just outside Beziers, organized by John Bojanowski,
an American married to a Frenchwoman, Nicole Bojanowski,
who makes Clos du Gravillas wines in St. Jean de Minervois.
He had been clever enough to realize there is now a
body of wine producers, including his wife, who are
staking a substantial part of their future on the viability
of Carignane. Hence the existence of carignans.com and
this gathering of tasters from Spain, Paris, Japan,
England and all over southern France.
We tasted 24 Carignanes blind from Languedoc, Roussillon,
Priorat, South Africa and California (with examples
from wineries including Coturri, Fritz, Mazzocco, Pellegrini
and Wild Hog). The grape is barely known in Australia
and South America, but it is a shame we did not taste
some of the voluptuous examples of Carignano del Sulcis
made in southern Sardinia. The wines were mainly 2001s
and, as usual, we came to almost as many conclusions
as there were tasters.
For what it's worth, these are mine:
-- Seriously old Carignane vines can produce concentrated,
characterful wine if yields are not too high and the
terroir is interesting. Many of my favorite wines came
from Priorat where all these conditions apply -- although
these wines are as tough as the terrain and tasting
them can be like sucking a stone. They are truly terroir-driven.
-- The quality is dependent on the existence of ancient
Carignane vines in the right place -- just as, for example,
some not-especially-promising sites in Contra Costa
County and Barossa Valley are currently able to produce
remarkable reds simply because of the age of their vines.
But success with particular ancient vines does not validate
the combination of Carignane and these terroirs. I cannot
honestly see the point of planting young Carignane anywhere
-- although I know Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards is
a great fan of its inclusion in field blends with old
Zinfandel vines.
The pope of Languedoc Carignane, Sylvain Fadat of Domaine
d'Aupilhac in Montpeyroux, is keen on keeping and even
planting a little more Carignane for blending into his
Coteaux du Languedoc to boost the acidity. In Montner
in Roussillon, young Marjorie Gallet of Roc des Anges
is so devoted to the Carignane plants that constitute
60 per cent of the vines she bought a few years ago
that she is planting more of it.
-- Then there is the question of oak. Fadat, who has
a particularly gentle hand as a winemaker, is adamant
that Carignane and too much new oak are not a pretty
combination. I agree with him and found one or two wines,
including the 2001 Roc des Anges 1903 and 2001 Wild
Hog Saini Farms Dry Creek Valley Carignane, just overwhelmed
by oak.
However, this was hardly an impartial group. It was
a bit like discussing the existence of God at a prayer
meeting. The discussion tended to revolve around the
lack of decent planting material and which rootstock
suits Carignane best rather than around the essential
quality of Carignane as a varietal, which was taken
by most of the gathering as a given.
An unsavory character
My main criticism of Carignane at its least successful
is its combination of high acidity and green, unripe
flavors. And I'm afraid I found that characteristic
in quite a number of this supposed creme de la creme
of the Carignane firmament (which for obvious reasons
ignored the great underswell of the French wine lake,
which is made up of a tide of sour Carignane).
Among non-European wines the 2002 Fairview Pegleg Coastal
Region Carignane from South Africa, the second vintage
of a wine I already admired, acquitted itself well.
It was the favorite of Perpignan's resident wine writer
Michel Smith, who considered himself vindicated when
told the landscape of Pedeberg granite in Paarl, where
it is grown, looks just like Corbieres in southern France
(something I cannot help doubting).
I am also sure California can field more impressive
Carignanes than the examples mustered by Bojanowski
-- though as I know from experience, it is by no means
easy to import non-French wines into France. The 1999
Mazzocco Alexander Valley Carignane, 2002 Pellegrini
Old Vines Redwood Valley Carignane and 2002 Coturri
Testa Vineyards Mendocino County Carignane did not score
highly with me; the 2001 Fritz Colombini Vineyard Redwood
Valley Carignane was impressively sophisticated on the
palate, even if marred by off-puttingly green notes
on the nose.
For me, the finest French Carignanes managed to avoid
this characteristic, presumably because the grapes ripened
fully, either because 2001 was such a good vintage in
the south of France and/or because of the age of the
vines and/or because of the terroir and/or because yields
were low enough (though Fadat says 2.3 tons per acre
is quite low enough). His 2001 Domaine d'Aupilhac Le
Carignan was certainly a model of restraint, the wine
from the first flight I set on one side for all subsequent
wines to be measured against. And my very favorite wine
of all came from the Fitou village of Paziols. The 2001
Domaine Bertrand-Berge Cuvee Megalithes Fitou was refined,
sophisticated and appetizing.
But perhaps this is to miss the point of Carignane.
Perhaps it is meant to be a cussed brute, like the rocks
that litter the Languedoc landscape? If so, let others
wallow in it.
Jancis Robinson is a London-based, internationally
known wine journalist, book author and educator. Visit
her Web site at jancisrobinson.com and e-mail her at
wine@sfchronicle.com.
Page F - 2
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| Home > Enjoyment > Food & Drink > Features
It's always the quiet ones ...
By Anthony Rose
11 September 2004
One of the modish wheezes of those who passionately espouse
a particular grape variety is to genuflect to it by holding
an international conference on the subject. When you're
between harvests, it's an excuse if nothing else, for
in-depth product familiarisation. Pinot Noir has long
been a favourite of New Zealanders and Oregonians, riesling
and grenache have had their moments under the international
spotlight, and the Barossa Valley recently hosted its
inaugural Shiraz Alliance.
Never before to my knowledge though has anyone remotely
considered getting down on one knee to the carignan grape
other than to pull it out of the ground. Carignan is widely
regarded as the sturdy shire horse of the southern French
vineyards, thanks to its rich colour, resistance to drought
and capacity to hang on to acidity. So holding a conference
on it is rather like foodies holding a potato peeler convention
or fashionistas a big-knickers party. Yet there I was
in the surreal environment of the Carignan Renaissance
(see www.carignans.com), an event organised in Béziers
by French winemakers, aimed at changing our perceptions
of this lowliest of varieties.
The French can parler the parley, and the lofty words
that flowed like claret could have convinced all but the
most sceptical that this strapping, rustic yokel is a
bit of a player after all. But it's the wines that have
to walk the promenade and, to be fair, a handful of the
pure carignan wines on show, not only from the South of
France, but from Priorat in Spain, from California and
South Africa, were very good indeed.
They were good because of the special treatment lavished
on them by enthusiasts who have spotted the potential
for creating concentrated wine from old vines. They are
the exception. The humble carignan has been all but discarded
in appellations such as Pic Saint Loup. While a maximum
proportion is prescribed in many other areas, such as
Minervois, which allows up to 30 per cent in the blend.
Indeed carignan forms a substantial proportion of the
100,000 hectares of vines uprooted in the last few years
in the Languedoc to make way for so-called "improving"
grapes such as syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. According
to Jean-Philippe Granier, who runs the Coteaux du Languedoc
office, "The authorities don't say that they're against
carignan, but they provide the means for pulling it out.
It's like not saying you don't like someone and then providing
the means for getting rid of them!"
Yet in a number of important appellations such as Saint
Chinian, Corbières and Fitou in particular, carignan
remains the traditional variety, and much old carignan
makes for a substantial part of classic southern blends
when properly cared for and vinified. One of the main
reasons grapes like carignan (cinsault is another) have
been so pooh-poohed in the past is because winemaking
itself was so much more rustic.
Today, growers who work hard at correcting the age-old
faults of lack of acidity, overripeness and overoaking,
are re-inventing carignan in blends of greater finesse
generally. So while the change to syrah and other classics
is part of an ongoing process of improvement, carignan
remains a living heritage of Languedoc wine. Indeed, it
has a valid claim to be this historic wine region's soul,
albeit its rustic soul.
©2004 Independent Digital (UK) Ltd. All rights reserved
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| Wine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuel's paradise
Carignan was once something you'd pour in your
petrol tank. Now it's going places, says Tim Atkin
Sunday August 22, 2004
The Observer
What's the world's worst grape variety? Readers will
know about my loathing of Pinot Grigio (the Dire Straits
of the wine world), but even I have to concede that there
are worse things than that. Wine drinkers would surely
be better off without Airén, Trebbiano, Müller-Thurgau,
País, Sauvignon Vert, Colorino, Doradillo, Ruby
Cabernet, Clinton and Durif. And don't get me started
on Merlot.
Some people would include Carignan in a list of grapes
they would have throttled at birth. In her useful Guide
to Wine Grapes (1996, OUP), Jancis Robinson politely described
this vigorous hot-climate grape as 'quantitatively extremely
important and qualitatively fairly disastrous'. There
are more than 700,000 acres of Carignan planted in France,
Spain, Italy, Australia and the United States, but they
are generally associated with the kind of wine you could
pour into an empty petrol tank in an emergency.
That's why I was more than a little surprised to be invited
to the first meeting of something called Carignan Renaissance,
a group with its own website (www.carignans.com) and the
conviction that Carignan has a 'beautiful commercial future'.
Out of professional curiosity, I went along to find out.
The tasting and all-day seminar were held in a building
owned by 'the Languedoc's only public lighting manufacturer',
which would have to be described as a low-key location.
To my amazement, the organisers had put together a tasting
of 23 pure Carignans from Spain, South Africa and the
US, as well as the south of France, and assembled some
very good winemakers (and Jancis Robinson, hardly Carignan's
greatest fan) to taste them.
The fact that Carignan is usually blended with other
varieties and rarely mentioned on labels has made its,
er, charms harder to appreciate. Does it deserve more
attention? The tasting was mixed, partly because it was
a hot day and the bottles had been open for a few hours
by the time I arrived, but it included some outstanding
wines: Fairview in South Africa, Mazzocco in California,
Domaine Rimbert in St Chinian, Domaine Bertrand-Bergé
in Fitou and Matassa in the Roussillon.
The tasting helped to change my mind about Carignan.
I'd always assumed that, at best, the variety was a solid
performer that retained useful acidity, even in very warm
years. I also knew its use was mandatory in some appellations,
such as Fitou, but my hunch was that this had more to
do with politics than wine quality.
Katie Jones, export director of the Mont Tauch co-operative
in Fitou, put me right. 'The problem with Carignan has
less to do with the grape itself than with where it's
planted. People generally put it in their most fertile
vineyards and go for big volumes, but if it's grown on
poor soils with lower yields, it can produce some fantastic
things.' When it's made well, it's a grape with a strong
personality. And we need a few more grapes like that.
Guardian Unlimited © Guardian Newspapers Limited
2004
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Il faut sauver le soldat CARIGNAN ,
Daniel Roche
Samedi 13 novembre 2004 au restaurant les Vins de l’Horloge
à Montpeyroux
Languedocien d’origine, le chanteur Bobby Lapointe
aurait pu chanter ses mérites et dire de lui qu’à
l’inverse du violon, le carignan ne supporte pas
la médiocrité. En effet, pour être
capable du meilleur, il doit implanter ses racines dans
un sol adapté à sa rusticité et à
sa vigueur. Point ne faut de terrains fertiles ou humides,
de régions froides et ombreuses, c’est un
bon gars du sud qui parlent l’occitan et l’espagnol,
il aime s’exposer au cagnard du midi et aux zéphyrs
rafraîchissants venus du nord. Généreux,
parfois trop, il faut savoir le guider et lui faire porter
charge raisonnable. Dans ces cas, le carignan est un type
honnête et franc qui donne des raisins aptes à
produire des vins riches et fruités, vifs et gras,
lisses et longs...“ la preuve !”
La garrigue Château la Casenove Côtes du Rousillon
2000 **
Jolie cuvée simple en provenance du Roussillon,
belle fraîcheur fruitée, demi-corps, souple
et facile à boire.
Les trois seigneurs Château Aiguilloux Corbières
2001 **(*)
Robe grenat violacée, nez profond de fruits noirs
et d’épices, agréable fraîcheur
mentholée en bouche, matière et fin de bouche
brutale.
Les dimanches Clos de l’Ahnel Corbières
2001 ***
Robe superbe très foncée, grande franchise
au nez, arômes de fruits noirs de cacao, de lard
grillée, bouche équilibrée ronde
et élégante aux arômes vifs et brillants,
belle longueur, tannins subtils.
Le carignan Domaine d’Aupilhac Vin de Pays du Mont
Baudile 2003 (brut de foudre) ***(*)
Belle robe violacée, nez fermé, bouche ronde
à l’attaque, énergique et sauvage,
belle longueur. Grand devenir.
Vieilles vignes les Vignerons de l’Agly Vin de
Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2002 ***
Vin de plaisir à la présentation rubis brillante,
joli nez floral et épicé, bouche très
ronde, rétro-olfaction de fruits noirs et de café,
simplicité et souplesse. Un vin charmant pour un
prix attractif.
Lo vièlh Domaine du Gravillas Vin de Pays des
Côtes du Brian 2001 ***(*)
Superbe robe noire bordée de bleu, nez profond
et envoûtant de fruits noirs et d’arabica,
bouche souple et ronde, très grillée, d’une
grande élégance, vin massif aux tanins ciselés.
Bel avenir assuré.
Carignator 1er Domaine Rimbert Vin de Table **(*)
Couleur énorme, nez simple de fruits noirs écrasés
(cassis), bouche puissante, rocailleuse, rustique ,tanins
charnus. Un vin de chasseur.
Le carignanissime Clos Centeille Minervois 2000 ****
Rubis brillant, nez superbe et raffiné de cerise
noire, d’épices douces, de réglisse,
de cacao et d’olive, bouche épatante de fraîcheur
et d’élégance, fruitée, belle
finale sur les notes de garrigues, long.
Les armières Domaine de la Garance Vin de pays
de l’Herault 2001 ****
Rubis brillant aux reflets violacés, nez puissant
et “culinaire”, notes marquées de sorbet
cassis, réglisse, jus de viande, chocolat noir,
guimauve, bouche ronde d’une grande fraîcheur,
jolis tanins veloutés et ronds, belle matière,
grande énergie. Un vin très savoureux.
Romain Pauc Château La Voulte-Gasparets Corbières
2000 -
Problème de bouchon, manque évident de netteté.
Les alaternes Château Bonhomme Minervois 1998 **(*)
Couleur évoluée brunissante, nez de fruits
confits, de cuir, de tapenade, de pruneau à l’armagnac,
bouche ronde un peu molle, en demi-matière, tanins
fondus, à boire.
Le carignan Domaine d’Aupilhac Vin de Pays du Mont
Baudile 1994 ****
Belle robe grenat pourpre à légers reflets
bruns, superbe nez de terroir, compote de fruit rouge,
“sous bois après la pluie”, cacao,
poivre blanc, réglisse douce, cuir de bohème,
beaucoup de rondeur en bouche, délicat toucher
de bouche, matière affable, belle finale aux notes
giboyeuses et fruitées, “un vin délicieux”.
Merci aux vignerons Sylvain Fadat et Pierre Quinonéro
qui nous ont fait l’honneur de leur présence,
et nous ont régalé de leur vins et de leurs
explications passionnées.
Merci à tous les amateurs du club qui avaient fait
le déplacement à Montpeyroux (certains venant
de loin ) pour déguster ces quelques bouteilles
en cette matinée ensoleillée et venteuse.
Merci à Jean Marc et Géraldine Wormser pour
leur accueil et leur cuisine encore une fois très
savoureuse.
Echelle de notation
***** grand vin, magnifique
**** vin excellent, de haut niveau
*** très bon vin
** bon vin, correct
* moyen
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CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Jérôme Pérez
Date: 26-07-2004 22:24
Voici mes commentaires de dégustation. Cette dégustation
a eu lieu à l'aveugle et les vins notés
sur 20.
1- la robe est très sombre, pourpre avec des reflets
violines. Le nez est d'abord animal, réduit puis
le goudron et les fruits noirs comme la prunelle se font
jour.
À l'attaque, le volume est important, sur des saveurs
de fruits noirs. Le vin est souple, soyeux avec une belle
acidité. 14/20
Clos du Gravillas 2001 rendez-vous du soleil.
2 -la robe est médium avec les traces d'évolution.
Le nez fest floral, alcooleux avec un peu d'acétate.
Le vin est piquant en bouche et à mon avis cette
bouteille est défectueuse. Non noté.
Domaine de la Treille Muscate 2002.
3- la robe de ce vin est dense, sombre, noire. Le nez
est d'abord un peu lactique puis s'exprime la fumée
et des notes florales de pivoine. En bouche, le vin montre
du volume, du soyeux, la trame est bien lisse et serrée.
Il s'agit d'un vin puissant et racé. Très
bon. 15/20
domaine d'Aupilhac 2001
4- la robe est sombre avec des reflets violines, c'est
une belle robe.
Le nez est marqué par le bois mais il y a du fruit
derrière: fruit noir, fumée et un côté
floral.
En bouche, c'est très équilibré.
L'alcool ressort un peu en finale. Mais c'est globalement
un bon vin, ambitieux et bien élevé. 14.5/20
Roc des Anges 2001
5- La robe de ce vin est impressionnate de noirceur et
de profondeur. Le nez est puissant avec des notes de graphite,
minérales et de goudron. Bouche très construite,
avec des saveur de pivoine et de goudron. Finale vive
et tannique, un peu asséchant: je ne sais pas si
ce vin va s'harmoniser au vieillissement. ?/20
Observatory, Afrique du Sud 2002
6- La robe est elle aussi très profonde, noir
violine.
Le nez est sur la retenue, un peu lactique, caramel.
En bouche, le vin est souple et suave, le grain est lisse,
serré. Une belle mâche et un très
bel équilibre. Grande longueur. Très beau
vin. 16/20
Bertrand Bergé 2001 Les Mégalithes
7 -la robes est dense, profonde, très sombre avec
des reflets violines. Au nez, on note du café,
les épices et de le cuir. En bouche, le vin et
se montre superbe, soyeux et gras, puissant et frais.
C'est un vin long et gourmand. Superbe. 17/20
Lo Vielh, Clos du Gravillas 2001
8- la robe de ce vin est médium, violine qui tire
sur le vieux rose. Au nez cela évoque la réglisse
et la fumée. Des saveurs de caramels se font sentir
en bouche. La structure est assez mince et la finale boisée.
C'est un vin très marqué par l'élevage.
13/20
Pellegrini 2002, Californie
9- La robe est noire et opaque.
Le nez évoque le cassis avec un côté
un peu végétal.
Volume et ampltude caractérisent la bouche. C'est
frais avec une surprenante finale mentholée. C'est
très bien mais c'est dommage que le nez soit si
agressif. 15/20
Champs des Marjolaines 2001, domaine Rimbert.
10- La robe semble connaître un début d'évolution
et elle est moins dense que la moyenne des vins présentés.
Le nez est floral, frais mais simple.
En bouche, ce vin évoque presque la syrah avec
cette saveur de violette. C'est assez mince, mais frais
et équilibré. 13.5-14/20
Terrasses d'Elise Le Pigeonnier 2002
11- la robe est très dense et sombre avec un début
d'évolution, disons que le vin est d'un noir qui
est légèrement bruni.
Profond et racé, le nezmontre un fruit précis,
la grenade, des notes fumées et du goudron. Superbe
bouche très racée avec de l'amplitude, de
la puissanceet du soyeux. Excellent, un vin ambitieux
et maîtrisé. 17.5/20
Priorat, Cims de Porrera 2001
12- La robe est très jeune, violine avec beaucoup
d'éclat.
Au nez ça sent le raisin frais, avec beaucoup de
naturel, mais c'est aussi un peu annimal.
En bouche, c'est mince et rêche. Finale courte.
Bof 12/20
Domaine de Nizas 2002
13- La robe est très dense, noire violine, impressionnante.
Goudron, mûre, notes fumées caractérisent
ce beau nez.
Puissance et volume pour la bouche mais le boisé
me paraît envahissant et la finale est un peu sèche.
Puissant et extrait. 14/20
El Arbres 2000 terroir de cims de Porrera isolé
(essai)
14- Très sombre à l'oeil, la robe présente
un début d'évolution: bel éclat.Le
vin est boisé. Un joli fruit cependant pointe,
un peu en retrait.
En bouche, des saveurs de fruit cuit sur un beau volume.
Bel équilibre. C'est bien, il y a du fond, mais
il en manque pour égaler les meilleurs. 15/20
El Pigate 1998 Essai parcellaire de cims de Porrera
15- La robe est très dense, un peu évoluée.
Au nez c'est animal assez prononcé. La réduction
fait rage.
Très puissant en bouche, la réduction s'y
ressent aussi et la finale est un peu rêche et sèche.
C'est un vin puissant qui manque un peu d'élégance.
14/20
Clos Manyetes 2000 Priorat.
16- La robe est médium, un peu évoluée
avec les bords aqueux.
Le nez est floral et épicé, garrigue avec
une finale très fraîche
C'est un style différents des vins présentés,
plus fin et frais. Bien. 15.5
Wild Hog 2001, Californie.
17- La robe est plus sombre que celle du vin précédent,
plus jeune aussi.
Le nez n'est pas net, pas propre, un peu acétate.
En bouche, ce n'est pas bon. Non noté
Frietz Winery, Californie
18- La robe est dense un peu brunie tirant sur l'olive
noire.
Justement, on retrouve l'olive au nez avec des notes de
goudron.
Très marqué par l'olive en bouche, finale
un peu sèche, voilà néanmoins un
vin original. 14/20
Carignator 1er, Domaine Rimbert 2003
19- La robe est dense et sombre.
Le nez est assez discret avec des notes réglissées.
En bouche on retrouve du voçlume et du soyeux avec
un peu d'amertume. Finale fraîche.
C'est bien, dans la moyenne de cette dégustation.
14/20
Coturri Winery 2002, Californie.
20- La robe est très sombre, violine et juvénile.
Le nez est lourd avec des notes lactées et de caramel.
En bouche, la corpulence est moyenne, avec un équilibre
correct, mais lma finale retrouve ces notes lactiques
un peu lourdes. 13/20
Fairview Winery 2002, Afrique du sud.
21- La robe est noire d'une densité et d'une profondeur
impressionnante.
Le nez est très fin, parfumé et complexe,
avec des notes de banane séchées.
En bouche, on est frappé par le grand volume. C'est
plein et complet. LA finale est certes tannique, mais
ce sont des tannins bien mûrs.
De la classe et de la profondeur. 17/20
Priorat, Val LLach 2001
22- La robe est légère avec des traces
évidentes d'évolution.
Le nez est un peu animal, un peu végétal,
assez diffus.
La bouche est mince, sèche et courte. 11/20
Mazzocco 1999 Californie
23- La robe est énorme, violacé, insolente.
Le nez est sur la retenue, un peu animal, mais il y a
un joli fruit derrière et des notes minérales
Un grand volume en bouche et un peu de sècheresse
en finale. Ce vin semble très intéressant
mais fermé à double tour pour l'instant.
14-14.5/20
Domaine Matassa, (Calce PO)
24- La robe est très sombre avec un début
d'évolution.
Le nez est sauvage avec beaucoup de naturel.
Belle bouche sapide. Du volume et du soyeux. La finale
est bien construite. C'est un beau vin. 15/20
Sinols, Catalogne 2001
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Jérôme Pérez
Date: 26-07-2004 22:34
Cims de Porrera
Val Llach
Clos du Gravillas Lo Vielh
Les Mégalithes du Domaine Bertrand Bergé
Ce sont pour moi les vins qui se détachent de
cette dégustation.
Finalement pas mal d'homogénéité
avec une foultitude de vins qui se sont positionnés
avec des notes assez semblables. Il sera intéressant
d'avoir les commentaires de synthèse.
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Hamitan
Date: 26-07-2004 22:45
Superbe et surtout incitatif.
Cordialement,
Hamitan
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: jeanclaude
Date: 26-07-2004 23:10
Merci Jérôme pour ce très instructif
et exhaustif CR. Plus je le lis et plus je me dis que
décidément le domaine B.B réalise
des cuvées de toute beauté. Lorsque l'on
sait que Les Mégalithes est un vin qui ne coûte
"que" 9€, cela laisse songeur sur le potentiel
de la cuvée Jean Sirven!
Jean Claude
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Anthony
Date: 27-07-2004 05:56
Tes 2 premieres places trustees par le Priorat .... c'est
en quelque sorte une reconnaissance de ces vins que beaucoup
(ici) ont decouvert via LPV. Ceci dit, les prix ne vons
surement pas baisser apres cela .
, Anthony
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Yves Zermatten
Date: 27-07-2004 07:49
bravo au Priorato ! on a beaucoup parlé de Clos
Martinet et de Clos Mogador sur LPV, mais on avait un
peu oublié Cims...(ce qui ne m'avait pas empêché
d'en prendre 6 bt )
Il faut quand même rappeler que les Priorato ne
sont pas des purs carignan D'où ma question à
Jérôme :comment a-t-on apprécié
les assemblages par rapport aux vins de cépage
?
avis aux amateurs suisses : on trouve encore du Cims
2001 chez DIVO (Martinet 2001 est épuisé)
pour 53 CHFS / env. 35 euros.
cordialement
Yves
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Jérôme Pérez
Date: 27-07-2004 07:54
Yves, il y avait là José luis Lopez qui
nous a bien expliqué que pour Cims, c'était
quand même très majoritaire.
Cependant, l'une des questions du débat a été
de savoir si le carignan devait être un cépage
d'assemblage ou être vinifié seul. La question
reste ouverte.
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Yves Zermatten
Date: 27-07-2004 14:19
Cims, ça doit être 90% carignan et 10% grenache.
C'est le grand Priorat qui contient le plus de carignan
à ma connaissance.
Jérôme, connais-tu l'assemblage - s'il y
a assemblage - de Val Llach ?
Yves Zermatten
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Jérôme Pérez
Date: 09-08-2004 09:01
la synthèse des résultats est visible ici:
http://www.closdugravillas.com/carignanrenaissancethelistresults.htm
pas mal d'écarts. Synthèse détaillée
bientôt.
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Gilles VIVES
Date: 09-08-2004 09:27
Vall-Llach : 60% carignan, le reste à parts égales
entre Merlot et Cabernet .
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Jérôme Pérez
Date: 09-08-2004 13:09
selon les sources, on parle également de carignan
merlot 50/50
Re: CARIGNAN RENAISSANCE 2004
Auteur: Gilles VIVES
Date: 09-08-2004 13:25
Au delà des sources,il semble que l'assemblage
varie en fonction des millésimes .
La composition annoncée concernait 2001 .
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Khendron.com
unfocussed work wine Carignan - The Grape of
Contradictions
November 26, 2003
I wrote this essay for my Wine Appreciation: Introduction
class. I chose the Carignan grape because of some Ancient
Vines Carignan from Cline that I tasted at the California
Wine Fair in April 2002. This was the first time I had
ever seen a varietal Carignan, and it was amazing. I did
a little research and found that Carignan was abundently
grown. But then why was it so hard to find as a varietal?
Read on to find out what I discovered.
Carignan is a grape of contradictions. It is one of the
most widely planted grape varieties in the world, yet
is being pulled up and replaced in vast quantities. At
one time it was the source of most of the red wine produced
in the world, but those wines were of mediocre quality.
It can produce an immense yield of grapes, yet is very
susceptible to both downy and powdery mildew and rot.
If Carignan is really, as has been charged, the bane of
the European wine industry, then why does it exist and
where did it come from?
Carignan was first identified in north-eastern Spain,
near the town of Cariñena in the province of Aragón.
It established a foothold in the Midi, in France, in the
twelfth century and remained there, biding its time until
the 1960s.
In the 1950s and early 1960s the most widely planted grape
in the Languedoc-Roussillon region was Aramon, which produced
red wines that were notably low in alcohol, colour, and
character. Aramon's most appreciated attribute was not
quality but yield: up to 400 hl/ha. In competition for
the <i>vin ordinaire</i> market of everyday
mass-market wines, Aramon was quickly losing market share
to the strong, alcoholic blends that were the product
wines imported from Algeria. The late spring frosts in
1956 and 1963 that wiped out a large portion of the Aramon
vines were additional nails in the coffin for this not-so-noble
grape.
The flow of wine from Algeria to France stopped suddenly
with the independence of Algeria in 1962. Farmers, who
by this time were being paid by the French government
to replace their Aramon vines with something more respectable,
found that Carignan nicely filled the gap. Producing yields
on par with that of Aramon, Carignan also buds late, making
it doubly attractive to farmers worried about spring frosts.
By the end of the decade Carignan had become, by far,
the most widely planted grape variety in Languedoc-Roussillon.
The agricultural census of 1979 reported 207,000 hectares
of Carignan growing in France, almost triple the plantings
of France's number two grape, Grenache. Carignan ripens
late and is highly susceptible to mildew and rot, making
it suitable only for regions with a long, hot, and dry
growing season. It should come as no surprise, then, that
most of the Carignan growing in France in found in Mediterranean
climate of Languedoc-Roussillon.
The wine produced from Carignan is very obviously better
than that produced from Aramon, but that isn't saying
much. High in alcohol, tannins, and acidity, varietal
wines made from Carignan have the dubious distinction
of having little appeal for early drinking and yet having
little aging ability. These wines, when produced, fall
into the category of cheap everyday drinking wines. Most
often the wine produced from Carignan disappears into
blends, with Cinsaut and/or Grenache being its most common
companions. The alcohol and astringency of Carignan is
a good complements the softer tones of these grapes.
Some Carignan varietal wines of exceptional quality do
exist, however. These are invariably the product of very
old (often greater than 100 years) vines with greatly
reduced yield, and posses aromas of chocolate, dark fruit,
and cedar (when oaked) with finely balanced tannins. Passable
varietal wines from Carignan are also produced using the
process of carbonic maceration, which does a lot (but
for most people, not enough) to reduce the harsh tannins
and adds the bubblegum/cotton-candy bouquet typical of
the process.
Carignan is still grown in Spain, its country of origin,
but is far from dominant. It is grown in Catalonia, under
the name of Cariñena, where it is blended with
Garnacha Tinta (Grenache), Monastrell (Mourvèdre),
and Tempranillo. In Rioja it is known by the name of Mazuelo,
where it competes with Graciano as a blending agent (usually
10% or less) for Tempranillo.
Carignan can be found in Italy, growing under the name
of Carignano, where it is found chiefly on the island
of Sardinia. This island grows a great number of grape
varieties of Spanish origin, a result of it being governed
by Aragón in the early 1700s. In a DOC named Carignano
del Sulcis, at the south-west tip of the island, the wines
are designated to be at least 85% Carignano. The Carignano
vines in this region are quite old, and in the last 30
years the wines produced from these wines have come into
their own, proving to be very pleasant food wines. Carignano
is also a minor component of some distinguished non-DOC
blends. Turriga IGT, for example, is 85% Cannonau, with
the remaining 15% made up of Malvasia Nera, Carignano
and Bovale Sardo.
Because of its characteristic late ripening and susceptibility
to rot, Carignan is found only in hot and dry wine regions.
Because of the fact that Carignan grows so well in a hot
and dry climate, it can be found in almost all of them.
Carignan once dominated the Israel wine industry, and
has been planted in Lebanon, South Africa, Argentina,
Uruguay, Chile (where it is actually having a bit of a
revival), Mexico, and China. Australia, somehow, seems
to have avoided it.
In California Carignane, as it is known an America, has
been an important varietal. In the 1970s and 80s, Carignane
was most often used as a blend in cheap jug wines and
was the state's third most planted red grape varietal.
By the mid 1990s, however, the amount of Carignane had
shrunk by 60%, being replaced by more respectable varietals
such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Zinfandel. Carignane
is still popular with home winemakers, since it is so
easy to grow, and has sometimes been called "the
growers grape". There are some producers, notably
Cline in Contra Costa County, that have 100 year old vines
and treat them with the respect that they require. The
Cline "Ancient Vines Carignane" (the wine that
inspired this paper) is a superb wine with lots of dark
fruit and graceful tannins.
It is unlikely that a popular revival of Carignan, even
with an "e" or an "o" tacked on the
end, will ever occur. Its past popularity has been largely
the result of the intersection of politics, social trends,
and climatic events. It has a future as an inexpensive
blending wine, and some very old vines will continue to
be diamonds in the rough in California, Italy, and France.
However, Jancis Robinson summed up Carignan nicely when
she wrote, in the <i>Oxford Companion to Win "Let
some interesting old Carignan vines be treasured but let
it not be planted."
References
Robinson, Jancis, ed. The Oxford Companion to Wine edition.
New York: Oxford University Press, 1999.
Robinson, JancisVines, Grapes and Wines London: Octopus
Publishing Group, 1986, rpt. 1999.
Johnson, Hugh, and Robinson, Jancis eds. The World Atlas
of Wine edition. London: Octopus Publishing Group, 2001.
LeMar, Jim. Varietal Profiles: Carignan Retrieved from
Professional Friends of Wine web site on October 18th,
2003:
http://www.winepros.org/wine101/grape_profiles/carignan.htm
D.O.C: Carignano del sulcis. Retrieved from Italian D.O.C.
Wines web site on October 18th, 2003: http://www.milioni.com/vini/ingd1/454.htm
Barahona, Ana María. El Carignan resucita a manos
de Morandé (Carignan revives at hands of Morandé).
Retrieved from the chilevinos.com website on October 19th,
2003: http://www.chilevinos.cl/contenidos/contenido.asp?ID=3346&Autor=19
Translation provided by www.google.com.
|
ISRAEL'S NOBLE NOD
By Stuart Peskett
The 2003 grape harvest in Israel has seen a shift towards
noble varieties, according
to the country’s main winery.
Adam Montefiore, international marketing director at Carmel,
which accounts for 50%
of the country’s wine production, says it has encouraged
growers to put more
emphasis on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay,
and cut back on
‘workman-like’ grapes Colombard and Carignan,
the two most heavily grown grapes
in Israel.
Early reports suggest a harvest of 46,000 tons, about
the same as 2002.
He said: ‘Carmel is trying to make wine like a small
winery, and we are trying to
incentivise the growers to plant the grapes that we want.
The whole idea is to get the
growers to think that they’re growing wine and not
grapes.
‘It really does look a good harvest this year. It’s
been a smaller harvest and that’s
good for quality. The balance of the white grapes is as
good as it can be: a balance
of fruit, acidity, colour, pH, and so on. The reds are
showing very well, too.’
|
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St. Jean de Minervois |
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